Presenting the Wines of Kabaj

Goriška Brda, often simply called Brda, is one of Slovenia’s smallest wine-growing regions, but its small size belies its exceptional quality.

This region boasts award-winning wineries such as Simičič, Kabaj, and Movia, as well as Klet Brda, the largest wine cellar in Slovenia. Like the surrounding regions of Collio, Friuli, Kras, and Carso, and the city of Trieste, this region is defined geographically by its proximity to the Adriatic Sea to the southwest and the Julian Alps to the east. The regions are also linked through their cultural history as wine regions of note near the trade nexuses of Venice and Trieste, two of the most significant ports of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Skin contact wine abounds throughout this region, and accounts for some of the finest wines produced here, as well as some of the finest skin-contact wines produced anywhere in the world.

The wines produced by the Kabaj-Morel family represent their home and, most importantly, themselves. Their philosophy is straightforward: crafting wines that they’d like to drink. The focus remains firmly on nature, the vineyards, and the soil. All wines are aged in either French barrels or Qvevri for a minimum of one year, followed by several months to years of bottle ageing to refine their flavours. Many of the current releases have significant time in bottle, as Kabaj prefers to release their wines when they feel they are truly ready to drink.

The estate’s specialty is Amfora, wines made in Qvevri, the traditional Georgian clay vessels from the birthplace of viticulture. This is not uncommon locally; we are, after all, less than an hour from the famed cellars of Gravner, Radikon, and Movia.

Perhaps what sets Kabaj apart from some of their skin-contact contemporaries is their wines’ readiness to drink. The wines are never released before they are enjoyable, though many have the structure to age and develop in the cellar. I have yet to open a Kabaj wine and felt that I was too early.

The red wines are another example of patience in the cellar. These wines are as hedonistic as they are intellectual. Unfortunately the quantities produced are small, so savour them!

Ravan 2019
Made from Zeleni Sauvignon, or Sauvignonasse, a grape that is delicate and prone to botrytis. Despite fermenting on skins for over a week, this wine is often mistaken for a white wine due to its greenish hue that persists even after bottling. Herbal, citric, and slightly spicy flavors combine with a glossy texture, making it an ideal companion for spring and summer dishes.
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Sivi Pinot 2020
Sivi Pinot is the Slovenian term for Pinot Gris which, in this case, underwent extended skin contact. Golden amber in hue, this wine reveals a layered nose of dried apricot, orange zest, and a touch of chamomile. The palate is textured and vibrant, with notes of candied citrus, spiced pear, and subtle almond, supported by a finely integrated tannic structure and lively acidity. 
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Rebula 2019
This Rebula, a native grape variety also recognised as Ribolla Gialla just over the border in Northern Italy, has undergone a 30-day maceration on its skins, fermenting with indigenous yeasts. This process imparts a striking orange hue and a refined, moderate tannic structure. Following fermentation, the wine matures for two years in French oak barrels before resting for an additional six months in bottle.
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Luisa 2013
A blend of Ribolla, Sauvignonasse, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Malvasia, this wine sees 30 days of skin-contact. The wine shows a deep amber hue, with aromas of leatherwood honey, toffee, dried violets, and cultured butter. On the palate, it is dry and robust, with a strong structure that remains intact. While the fruit character has mellowed, it lingers subtly. Warm and fully matured, this is a wine to savour, in the largest glasses available. 
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Konde 2009
After an extraordinary two-month maceration in traditional Georgian kvevri (amphorae), the Konde underwent 14 years of maturation in French oak barrels using the sous-voile technique, inspired by wines from the Jura and southern Spain. A natural yeast veil preserved the wine from oxidation, allowing it to evolve a singularly complex and refined character. The wine was left without topping up for 14 years in barrel!
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Merlot 2015
The wine reveals a deep ruby hue, exuding both vibrant energy and a hint of maturity. The bouquet unfolds layers of ripe dark red and black fruits, complemented by nuances of chocolate and a delicate touch of wood, embodying the quintessential elegance of a classic Merlot. On the palate, the wine is dry with a velvety texture and supple tannins. The ripe fruit character is vivid and intense, balanced by an understated elegance. Despite the warmth of the vintage, it retains a remarkable freshness, offering a harmonious and polished finish.
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Cuvée Morel 2013
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Cabernet Franc 2016
2016 marked the first pure Cabernet Franc from Kabaj in decades, and it proved to be the lightest and most aromatic of Kabaj’s reds, balancing the styles of Left Bank Bordeaux and the Loire, offering a wine of elegance and complexity. Aromas of sandalwood, sousbois, and wet soil introduce a palate layered with bitter red fruits, mineral notes of crushed quartz, and finely layered tannins. Bright acidity lends freshness, making this a charming and deeply satisfying red.
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