Gilles Berlioz La Deuse Mondeuse 2022

La Deuse harkens back to an era when wines often had alcohol levels below 10 percent. The process begins with whole bunches undergoing semi-carbonic maceration in a sealed vat for two weeks before pressing. Fermentation and ageing take place in fibreglass, with a total sulphur addition of 20mg/l before bottling in April the next year. The 1.2ha of mondeuse vines are planted directly into hard limestone bedrock. The scant topsoil leads to grapes that are ripe yet low in alcohol and high in acids. Persan grapes contribute additional tannic structure and a burst of intense red fruits to the typical Mondeuse aromas of violets, black fruits, and pepper. The result is a wine with very sappy, vibrant fruit, a fantastic texture, and true digestibility, making it a coveted Savoie bottling.

Domaine Partage is managed by Gilles Berlioz, whose path to becoming a celebrated winemaker was unconventional. Initially aspiring to a rural life, he attempted flower cultivation and vine breeding, but found no success and turned to building. A serious accident that cost him two fingers led to a recuperation period in his native Chignin, surrounded by family vineyards, which inspired him to take up winemaking.

Since settling in Chignin with his wife Christine in 1990, Gilles has expanded his vine holdings to 8ha, with 5ha rented 'en fermage', while also working as a landscaper. Disenchanted with chemical use and soil compaction from excessive tractor use, the couple shifted towards organic farming in the late 1990s, achieving certification in 2002. Gilles then embraced biodynamic practices and scaled down to a more manageable 6ha, leasing the remaining 2ha to his cousin Adrien Berlioz and other young local winemakers.

The vineyards at Domaine Partage are tended with the same care as one might give to a garden of flowers, with all work done by hand and horses used on steeper slopes. During the active spring and summer seasons, Gilles and Christine are supported by a seven-person team.

In 2016, the estate was renamed Domaine Partagé, symbolizing the shared journey with employees, fellow vignerons, and customers who have all contributed to its success. Domaine Partagé is now recognized as one of the most iconic estates in Savoie and across France. In collaboration with Pascal Quenard, Adrien Berlioz, and others, they share a harvest team and sell a quarter of their grapes to support emerging winemakers.

Gilles has evolved his winemaking approach, eliminating oak use in 2006 in favour of fibreglass and more recently adopting élevage on fine lees in horizontal fibreglass eggs, an orientation chosen to mimic nature and enhance lees contact, improving the wine's texture. Sulphur levels have been reduced to 30mg/l for whites and 20mg/l for reds, reflecting his commitment to natural wine practices.