Mark Angeli Vielles Vignes des Blanderies Anjou Chenin Blanc 2020

Mark Angeli, the paysan-vigneron and ecological activist behind Ferme de la Sansonnière, stands as a formidable figure in the ongoing wine revolution in the Loire, particularly in Anjou. His wines, true unicorns, are sought after globally and ironically symbolize the estate's rarity. We regret the limited quantities available (with thanks to Pascaline Lepeltier, Beverage Director at Chambers, for these excerpts from her 2020 article).

Originally a chemistry student turned stonemason, Angeli's journey into the world of wine led him to Anjou in 1989. Seeking affordable land to realize his vision of agriculture, he stumbled upon the Ferme de La Sansonnière in the schistous foothills of Bonnezeaux. At that time, the property was selling conventional wines to local supermarkets. Seizing the opportunity, Angeli promptly converted the farm to Biodynamics, a practice he embraced after training at La Tour Blanche in Bordeaux. Additionally, he personally restored the farmhouse.

Embracing Biodynamic farming was a revolutionary move for the region. Facing minimal support and strong opposition, Angeli encountered threats. Despite producing some of the region's best, most acclaimed, and unchaptalized wines, he chose in 2007 to forgo the Anjou, Coteaux du Layon, and Bonnezeaux appellations. Instead, he transitioned to Vin de France. As a staunch believer in terroir, Angeli could not align himself with the hypocrisy of conventional producers who over-cropped, excessively used chemicals, and relied on oenological tricks. To make a statement, he began listing ingredients on labels and shifted his top Chenin plots from sweet to dry and half-dry production—a groundbreaking move in the region. Recognizing that the revolution couldn't happen in isolation, Angeli became an early mentor, actively supporting like-minded, often young vignerons in successfully establishing their estates. He understood that the more individuals involved, the better the chances of realizing a socio-ecological revolution.