Johanneshof Reinisch S Gumpoldskirchen 2017

It’s a standard blend of Zierfandler and Rotgipfler from the Thermenregion. Zierfandler adds body and tropical fruit, and Rotgipfler adds herbaceous/citrus lift and acid structure. S stands for Ried Spiegel, i.e. single vineyard called Spiegel.

Quiet on the nose, just a touch of salted caramel and pineapple. The palate is something else. It has all the power. It’s a menthol-honey lolly you take for sore throat but the one that tastes good. It’s generously laced with cinnamon and ground white pepper, dried mango builds the core. It’s spicy. It’s warm as well but flavour concentration is in place to handle it. This can be a polarising wine as it has thick fruit sweetness and spice, it’s rich in flavour and giving. It’s a bit like masala chai with wild honey. Great intensity and inviting warmth along with a cleansing sour-bitter finish make it whole. There’s something medicinal about this wine, the hot drink you take for cold, pastis, all in a good way. Most definitely curing. I feel better now.

Rated : 94 Points

Drink : 2023 - 2030+

Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front