Malahi Vastakots 2023

Produced by Maran, one of the pioneering wineries of post-Soviet Armenia, Malahi Vastakots is an extraordinary amber wine inspired by medieval Armenian viticultural and winemaking literature. The wine takes its name from the Girk Vastakots (Book of Labours), a historical agricultural text containing instructions for vineyard cultivation and winemaking. It is produced from Spitak Areni, a rare white form of Armenia's indigenous Areni grape, grown near Aghavnadzor in Vayots Dzor at approximately 1,300–1,400 metres elevation, on volcanic and limestone soils. The grapes undergo approximately five months of fermentation and skin maceration in traditional Armenian clay vessels known as karas. Drawing on the historical text, the interiors of the vessels are coated with wax infused with powdered quince and apple, then treated with frankincense smoke. The resulting wine is remarkably distinctive, with aromas of quince, Asian pear, incense and dried hay. Extended skin contact gives the palate a fine, powdery tannic texture, while pronounced acidity carries its orchard-fruit, herbal and savoury characteristics through a persistent finish. A fascinating example of contemporary Armenian winemaking informed by the country's historical practices.