two winemakers walking among their grape vines

Presenting the Wines of Lichtenberger González

Oct 17, 2023Andrew Wyse

Martin and Adriana run a meticulous operation at their small family winery in the village of Breitenbrunn in the Leithaberg hills of Burgenland. Both Martin and Adriana bring an intense eye for detail, and are powerfully motivated by their dedication to achieving high quality and site transparency for all their wines.

While visiting them this year, I was struck by how difficult I found it to take detailed notes on each of the wines, such was their complexity, nuance, with an air of mysterious inscrutability. Beyond that, the wines are so enjoyable to drink that it was difficult for me to focus on their technical details.

These are truly magnificent wines, and the European market has definitely already taken note. The project is still young, so expect this label to continue to deliver amazing vintages into the future.

Martin and Adriana honed their skills under the mentorship of renowned biodynamic maestro, Gernot Heinrich. Concurrently they began weaving their vision, the rebirth of Martin's family winery, now christened Lichtenberger González.

Set amidst an alpine wonderland, their estate boasts vineyards precariously perched upon the limestone slopes of the Leithaberg mountains, nestled at the northwestern fringe of Lake Neusiedl. Here the couple painstakingly toil, adhering to the tenets of biodynamic principles imparted by their revered mentors, treading lightly in their cellar endeavours.

Their wines emerge as magnificent, genuine expressions of Austria's viticultural heritage, a testament to their dedication to a natural, unadulterated approach, and a true masterclass in the grape variety Blaufränkisch, often instructively examined alongside their peers in Leithaberg: Hannes Schuster (Rosi Schuster) and Roland Velich (Moric). Pristine and crystal-clear, these wines mirror the very essence—and terroir—of the rugged hills surrounding them.
— Andrew Wyse

The wines we’ve proudly imported are as follows.

Muschelkalk Weiss 2021
Extremely complex for an ‘entry level’ wine. The Muschelkalk Weiss carries lemon balm, tarragon, green tea, bergamot, rosemary blossoms and fine graphite. A blend of Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder and Welschriesling, the Muschelkalk deftly displays the Leithaberg vineyards' limestone and schist soils through Austria's great autochthonous varieties. View in our Shop.

Weissburgunder 2019
Cider apple, lime, hay, orange blossom, full fat yoghurt, vibrant attack with layers of salty grapefruit, pink peppercorn, lime leaves, honey, bee pollen. Mid-palate shows brioche, butter, and lemon curd. Intense crescendo into an extremely lithe finish. Extremely long, amazing potential for the cellar. View in our Shop.

Muschelkalk Rosé 2020
Like every wine at Lichtenberger González, this rosé cuvée of Pinot Noir, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt is given a whole year to develop. Intensely bright and highly animating, the Muschelkalk Rosé 2020 is spontaneously fermented and matured in large wooden barrels. It is bottled shortly before the next harvest. Handcrafting with great care and patience, Adriana and Martin clearly demonstrate the signature of their winery. Wild berries, herbs and tobacco leaves. View in our Shop.

Leithaberg DAC Rot 2018
Leathery, smoky, bitterish, with plums and blackcurrants. Earth and dark chocolate. But all full of great energy. Stewed plums, spice, and a bit of jam. Mulberries, truffles. It touches the palate from top to bottom. Mineral and earthy but lifted at the same time. What a trick and what a treat.
Rated: 93 Points
Drink: 2023–2028
—Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front.
View in our Shop.

Blaufränkisch Ried Edelgraben 2018
Pepper, violets, slate. Coffee, nutmeg, chocolate pralines. It finishes amazingly long and minerally, with slate-like, cool stone tannins, wet stones, fine and light acid lift in the back palate. A beautiful wine. Fine, detailed perfume, a long lingering finish. Divine drink.
Rated: 95 Points
Drink: 2023–2030+
—Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front.
View in our Shop.

Blaufränkisch Ried Vorderberg 2018
Velvety rose petals, violets, clove orange spice on the palate. Tannins are off the charts, very fine and heaped. Fine cocoa powder and rock dust, purple fruit and plump plums, cherries. It’s unbelievably juicy, mineral, crunchy with smooth feathery tannins.
Rated: 95 Points
Drink: 2023–2030+
—Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front.
View in our Shop.

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